Though many people think Australians simply throw another shrimp on the barbie and call this dinner, Australian chefs are in the midst of creating the most original and multicultural cuisine in the world. In Australian Food, Alan Saunders, a leading Australian food writer, assembles more than 140 recipes from 54 local chefs and other food professionals that demonstrate this. But first, Saunders defines Australian cuisine and discusses its relatively short history. His discussion includes definitions of cuisine itself and thoughts on how any cuisine originates and develops, using French and Chinese cooking, widely accepted as the world's two greatest cuisines, as models. Saunders then presents the work of Australian chefs as the vibrant fusion of indigenous ingredients prepared using French and Asian techniques, a British respect for the quality of food, and a sometimes electrifying creativity inspired by a potpourri of influences from Australia's many immigrant populations (which include Greek, Italian, Thai, Filipino, Japanese, and others). Yellow Thai Curry of Swordfish with Green Papaya, fragrant with mint and basil, shows the strong Asian influence in Australian kitchens. Poached Blue-Eye Cod, simmered in olive oil, served on a bed of French Puy lentils flavored with bacon, then bathed in a warm, sharp vinaigrette studded with diced fennel and tomato, demonstrates how Australian chefs transmute Mediterranean cuisine. Many recipes feature fish, as on