Every day at 5.20pm the staff at elBulli stop what they are doing, clear down their work surfaces and cover them with tablecloths, bring in chairs and sit down to eat a three-course dinner together in the kitchen. This is known at elBulli as the 'family meal', and it consists of homely dishes such as guacamole with nachos, Waldorf salad, fish soup, grilled sardines with garlic and parsley, or baked...